Features on the FRONT

figure 1

• SW3 (figure 1)- Analog R customization
  - FAR (DIP #1) = Fixed Analog R, the digital press puts out a predetermined analog value. trigger paddle must be soldered/attached to the fixed analog through-hole on the back. To select which value you’d like, close a jumper (figure 3), MSR for Mid-Shield R and LSR for Light Shield R.
  - AR (DIP #2) = Analog R, this makes the analog r act as it does on an oem gcc
  - DR (DIP #3) = Digital R, the digital press not only puts out a normal digital r signal, but also a full analog value as well. This is useful for when you’re playing with this on a nintendo switch.

• SW4 (figure 2)- Analog L customization
  - FAl (DIP #1) = Fixed Analog L, the digital press puts out a predetermined analog value. trigger paddle must be soldered/attached to the fixed analog through-hole on the back. To select which value you’d like, close a jumper (figure 4), MSl for Mid-Shield l and LSl for Light Shield l.
  - Al (DIP #2) = Analog l, this makes the analog r act as it does on an oem gcc
  - Dl (DIP #3) = Digital l, the digital press not only puts out a normal digital l signal, but also a full analog value as well. This is useful for when you’re playing with this on a nintendo switch.

• SW5 (FIGURE 1) - Button Mapping, flip all the switches to the on position if you’d like to have them all function normally. If you’d like to remap one button to another, flip each respective switch to the off position and solder wires from one jumper pad to the other (should look make a criss-cross pattern)
  - 1 = B
  - 2 = A
  - 3 = X
  - 4 = Y
  - 5 = Z

• SW7 (figure 2) - enable c-pad, in an effort to reduce the overall cost of a c-pad significantly i have moved most of the necessary components over to the main board, all that will need to be soldered are two 1.1kΩ resistors (through-hole or surface mount) and the four micro switches.

• ZL (figure 5), if you have a controller shell that supports a left Z (like the one designed by olympia/sean44104 or eatingproteinpancakes)
  - If you’d like ZL to act as just a second z, close jumper j1.
  - if you’d like zl to act as a different button, keep jumper j1 open and solder a wire from the ZL Test pad to whatever button you want it to be.

• T1, T2, and T3 sticks are supported (figure 6). ideally you’d want a t3 stick box with noble potentiometers, but it certainly is possible to solder on T1 and T2 stick boxes to give your old controller a much needed upgrade!

• Aftermarket Z is supported (figure 7). Some angled micro switches have mounting pins that are lower than an oem gcc z switch, so instead of having to physically alter the form of the switch, it can just be soldered in normally and effortlessly.

• Mouse click A, b, x, and y are supported with mounting holes (figure 8). not only is it possible easily solder on mouse click switches, but it’s also much easier to align the switches with where they need to be!
  - link to the switches i use

• SASI (Sharp Analog Snap-in) is supported (figure 9). The sasi is a custom board designed by sharp02 for a sanwa jlf lever to give it analog capabilities with the use of hall effect sensors and sliding magnet mounts
  - for more info on the sasi
  - BUY sasi Kit (availability may vary)

• Tactile D-pad (Figure 10) and start are supported.
  - wii classic smd tactile buttons work or you can use these

• Fight Stick/B0XX Conversion is supported. There are through-holes with solder points on the back for all of the buttons on the controller. This is so they can have a jst connector soldered on and connected to arcade style buttons or joysticks (like the sasi)
  - C-stick (figure 8, enable with sw7) and left stick (figure 6, enable by closing left stick jumper pads) have their own solder points for each direction